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Why try to fix it if it is not broken? Because it has a loose "part." That is my perspective regarding the modeling industry in our city. Although the opinion is divided and some experts in the industry say that Chicago is going under a major revolution and we are on our way to becoming the next fashion capital in the United States joining New York, Los Angeles, and Miami; a few others say that it is going to take a long trial before Chicago can unite and be mentioned in the same sentence as the former.

While we give time a minute, and see the results arise from the efforts done by some organizations such as Fashion Focus Chicago, Chicago Fashion Week, Gen Art, and so forth, we have to tie the loosen parts that can break the cohesiveness we need to pursue in becoming a strong and respected fashion Mecca in the States.

One of them is the incessant circle of non-paid modeling assignments in Chicago. Be it a fashion show, print /editorial, catalogue or commercial work non paying jobs are breaking down the road people in the fashion industry must take. Am I being negative about my statement? No, my point is that if we continue featuring models picked out of the streets with no professional modeling experience (regarding fashion assignments), the fashion industry will continue to suffer.

Send me your comments at webmaster@chicagofashiondesigners.com. Post a comment about this article in our forum:

Another controversial article by Cory N. 12.06

So here are my takes about a few ways to respond to Non-Paying modeling gigs excuses: The next time you see someone seeking models for no pay, don't hesitate to respond to their lame excuses for non-payment!

10. We're a non-profit organization, (magazine)

Think about it, do non-profit companies get their over-head expenses, utilities, web hosting or printing services for free? Non-profit doesn't mean you don't make any money. It simply means you have to spend it before the end of your tax year. So, if the utility companies, web hosting firms, attorneys, hired-staff and even printers don't give their services for free to non-profit publications. Why should models be asked to do so?

9. Lots of top fashion designers, casting directors and bookers from high-end products read our magazine...

Fashion designers, casting directors or bookers are NOT looking in other publications for models, especially non-paying publications! They can hardly keep up with their own slush piles as it is from legit agencies mailing comp cards of their models. Please don't insult models by trying to trick us into believing this common deceptive tactic. Models that spend time and effort on the preparation of their careers are aware that for some publications is easier to go to the street and approach someone with a good look with the same lame aforementioned strategy, however, readers can see the difference between a professional model and someone picked up from the street.

8. Your face will be all over the city and seem by thousands

My face is with me wherever I go Mister!

7. The tear-sheets will look great on your book!

The real casting directors and bookers know which publications don't pay. And they will not be impressed with work that clearly shows no planning and professional preparation. Why should they hire you as a model and pay you for what others are getting for free? And, modeling for free devalues a model's worth. Marketing department bookers know...you get what you pay for.

6. Free VIP invitations to our "exclusive fashion shows and events"

That excuse is so lame that not even the so called "fashion editors" believe it. We all already know the game, "…get them some free drinks for an hour to pack the venue…." VIP events? Please….

5. We are a prestigious publication and it's an honor to model for our editorials.

Prestigious publications have WORKING CAPITAL (Budgets) from which they pay their models.

Continue above >>>

4. We are a literary magazine and therefore don't pay models.

If you can't afford to pay models, you shouldn't be in business. Just placing the word literary in your product description or name doesn't give you license to scam models out of their much-needed pay.

3. Anyone would love to do this job, besides modeling is easy! Why should anyone expect to get paid to model?

If you think modeling is so easy, why are you asking me to do it for you? Please, go ahead and do it yourself, after all some "fashion editors" in Chicago seem to be "a man of many hats": photographers, stylists, make-up artist, illustrators, graphic designers, etc. all at once. They might as well be their own models.

2. We will use you for future assignments with payment, but not this one!

Do you mean to tell me that after I model for you the magazine is going to be successful? Hell, call me then!

And what's the number 1 excuse offered for non-paying modeling gigs?

1. We can give you GREAT EXPOSURE!

Simple as this: Any publication that can't afford to pay models or agencies; isn't going to offer models any exposure. Much less those "pocket/quarter size" magazines because you couldn't even use the tear-sheets in your book due to the size of them.

Likewise, anyone who's been around awhile who doesn't have any revenue (the main reason they can't afford to pay for work) is either too small to offer any exposure or too greedy to pay from the revenue they make from advertisement.

If they have an impressive circulation, they can afford to pay models because they obviously don't offer advertisement for free.

Fashion Designers needing the support of models to develop their catalogues at the launching of their collections should also contemplate in their cash flows and business plans a line item for these expenses.

After all models and crew alike incur in expenses such gas, bus fares, time and more, so their time should be compensated.

COMMENTS BY OUR READERS

"While I don't disagree with many of the points made, it is overstated, and even the most prestigious magazines pay very little anyway. "Editorial rates" and "unpaid" are about two good lunches apart on the monetary scale. T.T. Photographer

"I see that all the time for photographers. I can't buy equipment, or rent my studio space with "exposure" ...Raquel G.

"A major problem with our industry is that there's always someone willing to do it for free, be it another model, another photographer or another stylist. Can you blame the magazines for wanting to get in on this big fad of creatives short selling themselves? Who doesn't want a free lunch? I feel the fault lies with the people taking the jobs, not the people providing them. It's a shame though." SM -Photographer

"I think if you are first starting out, it might be beneficial for your book or whatever. But, exposure? No. As an MUA, it has helped me to get discounts, etc + experience. But, now with more experience I must get paid! I just hate when I am asked to do MUA for like 6 models over a 12 hour day for "exposure". I have a book. I need to rest form putting it together thank you." Makeup artist

"...exposure is great. have some for dinner tonight. (attributed to dad) "--face reality Photographer

"So this is why no one is applying to my husbands FREE MFP MAGAZINE. He is paying for everything and gets nothing out of it but his hobby, yet you all can sit here and complain. AMAZING. FREE. I think I will tell him to start charging. IM

Magazine publishing is pretty expensive and competitive to take on as a "hobby." But more importantly, why should other people work hard to support HIS hobby? You almost sound as if you think he's owed free labor. Model

"A few might need exposure; a few might want exposure; as for me, when I feel the urge,... I just unzip my pants."Studio36

"I have seen the same thing on Craigs list so many times it is ridiculus". Dave - Model

RIGHT ON GUYS, finally someone with big b---- to say it like it is. Just recently, I was invited to a show were coordinators asked me for my credit card number in order to secure the outfits to be worn during the show. Can anyone REALLY believe this? If so, you must be thinking that the show actually pays at least $5000.00 dollars, right? Well. Not a penny and on top of this, they wanted me to go to 4 rehearsals in different days. let’s sat no to NON-PAID JOBS… next time you are offered an assignment where you are required to give your credit card, where there is no money involved, where you have never heard of the company, please trust me… YOU ARE BETTER OFF STAYING AT HOME AND SAYING NO to non-paid jobs. Alex - Model with ---

"Most of this exposure crap is utter nonsense. It is one thing to work for exposure for an established, reputable organization. It's another to gamble on a start-up publication or one with almost no distribution. Really, I'm exposed enough already. Non-entity publications are bad enough, but the worst are start-up companies creating ads and catalogs and still want free photography, including models and MUAs. It's completely exploitative." TD - Model

I'd rather get some great exposure than a paycheck... but that's just me. Stephnie - Model

"Great article. As a photographer and also an agent that represents many models I shot with, I was pleased to read this article. Very stright forward, and overall, simple to the point. Good work!" IndustryNY - Photographer

oh snap! you hit it. keep up the good work! fb - photographer